In June the feast of Corpus Domini attracts many visitors to Itri, to view the colourful, decorative carpet of flowers, over which the traditional Corpus Domini procession passes. 

The designs depict scenes from the bible and messages of peace and brotherhood, and are painstakingly composed of thousands of individual flower petals.

Three kilometres from Itri, perched on Monte Civita

is the Sanctuary of La Madonna della Civita.

Up here the mountain air is clean and fresh

and on a clear day the panoramic vistas are simply breathtaking. 

In one direction, there are views of dramatic mountain scenery.

On a clear day there is a splendid view of the Valle d’Itri,

the Gulf of Gaeta, Ischia and the Pontine Islands.

Finally the panoramic coastline sweeping round and culminating in

the rocky promontory of San Felice di Circeo.

La Madonna della Civita,  the “Madonna of the Old City” is the patron of Itri, whose annual feast day falls on July 21st.  People from all over South Lazio come to make a sacred pilgrimage and in Itri there is a week of local festivities.

Mural of La Madonna Della Civita.

 Terracotta Roof-tops of Itri

Lower Itri with the beautiful backdrop of the Aurunci Mountains

Via Farnese that takes you inland towards The Sanctuary of La Madonna Della Civita

and the hill top village of Campodimele.

The route of the modern Via Appia towards Fondi and Rome.

From Upper Itri there is also a good view of the

church and convent of Santa Maria di Loreto. 

The place we chose to call our new home is the small town of Itri – a sweet little town nestling in the foothills of the Aurunci Mountains. 

The town of Itri is divided into three sections: the upper Medieval town, the historic neighbourhood clustered along the route of the old Via Appia, and the lower sprawling, more contemporary area. 

The infamous highway, the Via Appia, runs directly through the town and is a testament to the remarkable organisational and engineering ability of the Romans.  Construction of this, the first and most famous of the ancient Roman roads, was commenced in 312 AD by the Appius Claudius Caecus.  It was called the “Queen of Roads” (Regina Viarum) and was to be the main means of communication between Rome and the south, first to Capua, and later extended down to Brindisi, with a total length of more than 563 km (350 miles).  Just outside Itri original sections of this road can still be seen, paved with blocks of hard wearing lava.

During the era when young British aristocrats and scholars undertook the cultural “Grand Tour” of Italy, a common itinerary would have included Rome, Venice, Florence and Naples.  Thus many great artists and writers would have journeyed along the route of the Via Appia, and Itri may have been a welcoming resting place for weary travellers.  Charles Dickens, when travelling through Itri during the 19th century described the castle in his journal as being “like a device in pastry, built up, almost perpendicularly, on a hill, and approached by long steep flights of steps.” 

The dominating castle, dating back to the 9th century, is strategically positioned high on a hill, providing a commanding view of the surrounding area.  The twin towered castle, with its formidable walls and ramparts was considered to be impregnable.  The round tower was given the name of the “Alligator Tower“, as it is said that it contained a pool, which was the home of an alligator which fed on unfortunate prisoners who had been condemned to death.  In recently years the castle has undergone extensive reconstruction and renovation.  It was partly destroyed in 1944 when Itri was savagely pounded by aerial bombardment, which left seventy five per cent of Itri in ruins. The castle is now used for exhibitions and cultural events and an atmospheric setting for summer music and film festivals. 

The historical centre, in upper Itri and it can be reached both on foot and by car.   The fortified medieval quarter is a warren of narrow cobbled streets, archways, gates and stairways.   The 11th Century church of San Michele Arcangelo has a beautiful bell tower.  

The church of Santa Maria Maggiore also suffered badly during the bombing and was practically destroyed, however the domed campanile, constructed in 200 AD, was spared and has now been restored to its original splendour.  Both of these bell towers are adorned with miniature majolica ceramic tiles.

We have now been living in South Lazio in Italy for more than 3 years.

We came to this area on holiday several years ago and we loved it so much that we decided to sell up, “lock, stock and barrell”, and move out here.  We have no regrets.

This beautiful mountainous, coastal region is situated midway between Rome and Naples.

This area is rich in history, architecture, culture and natural beauty and is noted for its temperate climate, and rainless summers.

It is blessed with the best of both worlds :

The beautiful coastline of the Riviera Di Ulisse, with its numerous golden sandy beaches, rocky coves, hidden caves and sheltered harbours, and the pretty seaside resorts of Sperlonga, Gaeta, Formia and Terracina.

Yet close by are the dramatic mountains of the Aurunci Regional Park, with its verdant hillsides, olive groves, lakes and protected nature reserves.

I would like to share with you, my passion for this beautiful area, by taking you on a photo tour of this very special region.

Enjoy !!!

All photos and text  © Louise Shapcott (Nonna Lou)

 All rights Reserved